Several people who have read this blog have asked – where exactly are you? Is it close to Chernobyl? Are you in a war zone? Let’s go with some geography about where exactly Belarus is.
Roll out the map in front of you (either in your mind or on Google Maps – who uses those big, printed ones anymore (sorry Richard, John and all of the scouts!).
Belarus shares borders with Poland (West), Lithuania (Mid-West), Latvia (North-West), Russia (North and East) and Ukraine (South). It’s a country of over 9 million people, 91% registered as Christians. Its capital, Minsk, lies close to the country’s centre and has a population close to 2 million. It has a complicated history but became an independent republic (again) in the very early 90s. Its economy is powered by heavy manufacturing (famous for its tractors) and agricultural produce (a varied selection of which we have seen and consumed since our arrival!).
Chernobyl is not actually in Belarus, it’s in northern Ukraine – about 400km from Minsk and Gorodishche (which are 145km apart – you’ll undoubtedly need to be looking at a map now). Apart from a trip that we took to visit Kirill (see A Home Away From Home), we are not close to the Ukraine border (the nearest town in Ukraine is 225km away from Gorodishche)
Gorodishche, home for the last 3 weeks, is a very small village in Mid-West Belarus (the town name is reasonably common and translates as The Settlement). There are few employers here (the Orphanage is seen as the largest) and it is mostly an agricultural area- we hear tractors and large bailers up and down the road from early morning to late night (it’s right in the middle of harvesting season here). The nearest City is Baranovichi, it looks like any other city you might see in any country. Lots of restaurants and shops, a vibrant city centre (unlike my nearest and dearest in Ireland) and, most importantly, a KFC and a selection of cinemas (more on that later).
The President of Belarus is sports-mad; he spends large amounts of money to create state-of-the-art sports facilities throughout the country. As we arrived, the CIS (Commonwealth of Independent States) games – equivalent to what we see as the European Championship – were getting underway in Belarus. Teams from 9 countries compete in many different disciplines, there’s even beach volleyball (in a landlocked country!).
We are told that there will be a big event in the town of Gorodishche, related to the opening of the new astroturf 5-aside football field. A team for the Orphanage is entered and will play against teams from the surrounding villages and towns. There are dignitaries from the field of sports and local politics (at one point we heard that the Minister for Sport was going to appear, but this didn’t come to pass).
An entourage of 29 (including us two Irish) leave the Orphanage and head to the field, about a mile of a walk. For some, that’s quite an achievement as walking much shorter distances would be seen as a challenge. But most importantly, the team of 5, and one sub, arrived to get kitted out and start the drills that were being called out by Vitalek (I joined but I was clearly not at the same level in so many ways). The boys looked fantastic in their red Gorodishche Orphanage Team jerseys.
As with most things here, there is a lot of ceremony around such events. Speeches, dancers, singers, and . . . the cutting of the red tape. All that’s left to do is – football.
Our boys are beaten in the first game against a local boys’ school, the challenges facing our team are too much and the “boys in blue” win the opening game. But better was to come. The second game was against a local girls’ school, they played the “boys in blue” and looked really good, but they didn’t take into account the power of Vitalek.
Vitalek takes his sport seriously, he has many awards for representing Gorodishche at local and national levels. He defends, he attacks, he shoots and . . . he scores. Two goals for Vitalek (and one that’s called back for a free for Vlad) and the boys have something to take away from the day. But the abiding memory for me will be the number of times that opposition players turned their back when Vitalek kicked the ball. A cross between Desperate Dan and Ball Boy from The Beano comes to mind as he winds up to see if he can bore a hole in the opposition goal.
A walk home (the same mile) with a little to show for the efforts but, most importantly, ice cream for all. It’s been a hot day and players, and supporters alike, need refreshments.
We learn later that Joanne and I have appeared in the local online newspaper. We do stand out a little, I guess. There are TV camera crews there also, not sure if we made it to that medium though.
Ireland and Belarus share the national vegetable – the humble spud. They eat as many as we do/did and there are so many recipes and dishes that have spud as the main player. My personal favourite (to date) is the fried potatoes that we have had a few times from Lolya. Then there’s the draniki (we might call them potato cakes at home) that comes on its own or is filled with anything you can imagine (mostly savoury).
I put a new twist on the Belarus spud one evening by introducing them to potato salad, they are wary at first as they try to come to terms with cold potato and raw onion. But it doesn’t take long, and soon enough there are many who have tried the Irish Potatoes.
I’m asked if I can teach Vitalek (he of soccer fame) how to make these. Now I think that he thought there was more to it that I could “teach” him. But the challenge is accepted, and Chef Don is booked for a lesson one of the evenings.
Vitalek and his entourage, who travel as a group of 7, arrive early to watch the process (think paint drying in reality) and he enthusiastically peels the potatoes that he has supplied himself. The time from spuds on to ready to mash is filled with a few games of cards (more on Uno and its rules coming soon). As I put lashings of butter and a little milk into the mash I hear Paulina mutter under her breath – “that’s so easy to make” (she loves me really!). But my apprentice is keen and lashings of mayonnaise and raw onions (again supplied by the group) are added to the mash. It may have taken some time to make but it was eaten in minutes (even Paulina was keen to have her share!).
I don’t know if they will ever again be made here, but there was fun in pretending that we could change their palette in some small way and bring a little taste of Ireland to the kitchen here (I’m not sure that Bord Bia would be that impressed with my contribution to Irish cuisine).
We’re still doing letters here and there are now adults that are looking to get in on the act. Teachers and the Assistant Director are on the list of people who want to write to volunteers who have left lasting impressions here in Gorodishche (I’m not sure that they will buy into the colouring that goes along with letters written to date).
At the request of Lida (one of The Derry Girls), I’ve reached out to her “papa” who happens to be “Papa John” (not the Supermac’s one!). Lida has such fond memories of her Papa John and proudly shows me photographs that were taken with him some years ago. She has written him a letter and I send it to him hoping that it’s the right Papa John and that he will want to write back.
Well, no need for any worry on that front. The contact escalates quickly and before I know it we are speaking to Papa John in the classroom. I’m not sure which of the two was more emotional at the “meeting”, John is so thankful for the opportunity to speak (through Irina) to his girl. He promises a letter and a photo, that arrives the following day (thank God for technology).
I brought the photo and a translated version to Lida, she is gobsmacked (and she’s not as emotional as many others that are in her group). She asks over and over again, “photo – Papa John”, and I’m happy to let her take the phone and watch as she wells up looking at her Papa and his two dogs. This is #importanterstuff.
I have a running message to a group of lads back in Ireland. It’s my “wouldya” series of photographs of what I’m eating for dinner each evening. I’m being fed like a king and there is (almost) nothing off-limits. Not all of what I am eating would be seen as part of the regular diet at home. But these lads know me well and know that I’ll try anything (but will make sure that there’s a large amount of toilet paper in the fridge for emergencies!).
There’s the pickled herring and beetroot – that’s met with a lot of thumbs down. The sausage and fried potato, thumbs up but they didn’t experience the texture and grizzle that I did! The first attempt at what looked like pâté but ended up being more like a Dunlop winter tyre – they liked that without realising that it was . . . yuk! The second attempt at pâté that tasted like . . . pâté. And the one that fooled Joanne (the vegetarian had a mouthful before she realised what it was) – seaweed with small bits of fish (unknown variety) and lots of mayonnaise, very tasty. Stuffed cabbage leaves that meet with a thumbs up from everyone (that is a recipe that will certainly come home).
As I write this, my next taster is delivered. Pancakes from the independent house. As they say here “ochin cusna” (very tasty).
We eat a lot of cold foods here, it’s high 20s to early 30s most days. But the one thing that we’ve yet to find, that tastes good, is cheese. Despite Belarus’s reputation for agricultural produce, the truth is that Ireland is the King of Dairy. But we continue to experiment and search.
We play cards most days or evenings with several groups here. Nothing too complicated, a game called Uno (although like most other things here it ends with an A and is called Una).
For those that don’t know it, the rules are simple. Follow the colours, change on the same number card, skip, or reverse on special symbols and pick up 2 (or more) on the + cards. If you haven’t played before, you will learn within 5 minutes of being dealt the 7 cards. But wait!
I quickly discovered that there are some “local” rules. And the most interesting thing about these is . . . they change with the individuals or groups that you are playing with. Now – far be it from me to call this cheating but! I’m very competitive and want to know what I’m up against, I ask for some explanation but discover the truth is that – Lonya plays any cards at any time and gets away with this, Pasha doesn’t know how to play so he is “helped” by whoever needs to benefit from the cards in his hand, Vitalek never loses (still trying to work that out), Vanya always seems to have fewer cards than everyone else in the game, and everyone wants to beat Don.
I’ve accepted that I won’t always win (my 3 boys at home will be happy and surprised to hear that) but I’m determined to find some new “local” rules that can help me when I play this bunch of wisers!
We’ve been down a Derry Girl from early in our visit. Ruslana is in hospital with a kidney problem and recent tests show that she is likely to stay another week or two at least. But in true showbiz style, the show must go on!
We had proposed a day out for this group when we arrived in Gorodishche. The sense was that a trip to KFC in nearby Baranovichi would be the ideal treat (little did I realise at the time that I would be looking forward to that more than the “girls” when the time arrived). There was talk of a historical/educational trip, a trip to the zoo, but eventually, it was agreed that the KFC treat was going to be the winner.
We hear that preparations are underway the previous evening with the Derry Girls. Glad rags are brought out and showers are had – Serozcha (like me) is bewildered, surely 10 minutes before the bus arrives is enough time to be getting ready! “Have you decided what you’re wearing” is the question from Joanne – oops, maybe I need to give this some thought. I checked the forecast; the weather will not be as hot (why do I believe the forecast here?) so jeans (for the first time since I arrived) and boots, that are practical but warm, are selected.
We are “out the gap” at 10 sharp on the morning of the great KFC Adventure (we will be doing other stuff but that is an evolving plan as I am seeing it). Everyone is dressed to the nines. The bus will drop us at KFC in Baranovichi, and we will “wing it” from there (that’s not true, the class teacher Lena has everything planned to the minute). But the first stop is KFC (I even dream about eating something “normal”).
Serozcha has never been to KFC, the others in the group have been a few times. He remains totally silent through the meal; he is in heaven (in truth the food tastes nothing like the version we have in Ireland – why would it!). Joanne (the vegetarian) suffers a couple of stingy onion rings and things that look like chips while I feast on a chicken burger with some “bacon” that is distinctively Belarusian.
A walk in the park followed by a trip to the amusements is next on the agenda. Joanne has been here before (and has the scars) but I’m all enthusiasm. An enquiry from Irina and we are told that all of the rides are free for children from the orphanages, something else that the authorities here seem to have gotten right! My “wouldya” of the day to my lads at home is the roller-coaster. It’s seen its day and I am not getting on that – oh wait – “weeeeeeeeeeeeee”! Serozcha and I are squealing in “joy” as the rust bucket flies up and down the track.
Next stop – the cinema. Lena has done the homework and we are at the big cinema in town by 1 pm. However, we discovered that wheelchair access is limited, and the manager will not allow us to carry the chairs up (and down) some steps – I guess restrictions like this are, sadly, universal! Plan B (good on you Lena) finds us at the 1:30 pm sitting at a nearby cinema where we have the entire hall to ourselves (barring 2 others who arrive after we’ve settled). We enter through the emergency exit (no stairs to contend with). It’s a dubbed animation film from China. The booming sound from the system made to cater for a hall of 100s frightens the small group that is seated in the front row (that’s just the excuse they used to hold our hands – or was that the other way around!).
And then it’s time for home, a very satisfied bunch with memories made for life. I got a message from Tanya. Unedited it reads – “Thank you very much for everything, thank you for such a holiday, we will remember this day forever, we liked everything. When you come next year, we will go to the same place where we were this year next summer”. That’s a deal! I told you about #importanterstuff!
PS. If you heard that anyone fell asleep at the movie, you’re much mistaken (your secret is safe with me Serozcha!).
Joanne’s Reflection/Poem Of The Week
Week 4 has unleashed another poem from my heart. There isn’t a single human being in this universe born wearing a cape or a crown. We are all born the same – naked, dependant, vulnerable & needy. Life is responsible for circumstantial differences. We are 100% unique, yet 100% the same. My poem “I AM” is my statement of truth xx
A Random Selection Of Week 4 Photos
Importanter Stuff 
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